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ome of our biggest sellers are unclassifiable. We've lost count of the number of packs of single chainring bolts that we've sent out into the world, for instance, and we've probably sold enough 1/8" chainwhips to encircle the Isle of Wight. Or somewhere. Anyway, if you came to Hubjub looking for a useful tool or one-off part, this is where you'll probably find it. Don't get lost, now.
TOOLS: ALLEN KEYS | CHAINWHIP | CHAINCRACKER | LOCKRING TOOL | SPANNER ||
CHAINS: DID NJS | HALFLINKS ||
PARTS: CHAINRING BOLTS | CHAINRING SPACERS | GRIPS | RUBBER CEMENT | LOCKRINGS | 12T COG | TRACK ENDS | TRACKNUTS | PITLOCK | TT PROTECTOR | CLAMP-ON BRAKE
We've long advocated the use of decent allen keys for fix wrangling. Now we've switched suppliers to bring you these budget Eldis from the former East Germany. The shafts are long for good leverage, and both sizes have dense plastic handles which make it less painful to wrack up the torque. 6mm is the most common size on bolt-on hubs, while the 8mm will come in handy if you're switching spacers on a LeVeL hub. Or assembling Ikea furniture. (We're not fussed.) |
This is the TL-SR-22, the new version of the Dura-Ace trackie tool. Like its predecessor, it combines a 1/8 chainwhip with a lockring spanner. Unlike its predecessor, it's made of hardened steel. The spanner is a bit small for BB lockrings -- check out the Hozan tool if you need to shift larger 'rings. Restocked. |
We originally bought in the Cracker when we discovered the Interlock chain's tendency to giggle nastily at Park tools and Topeaks and the like. But then regulars started asking for crackers of their own, and we realised that a bunch of people out there need something fairly substantial for wrangling 1/8 track chain. This is a semi-pro tool with some neat features like a replaceable rivetpopper (one spare incl.) and a limiter collar that stops you pushing the rivet all the way out of the link. Take no crap from your Izumi! Restocked. |
We now have a good source for the Cobra 'peanut butter' spanner in both 14 and 15mm varieties. The 14mm version is a bit slicker, having those blue plastic grip things, tho' both are pretty rough by contemporary standards. Nevertheless, easy to pack and handy if you find yourself wrangling axle nuts. Restocked. |
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| SEE ALSO THE JETHRO TULE |
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People used to ask when we would be getting in a proper NJS track chain. I mean, they'd pester us every day in the street. We've always brought over HKKs and Izumis on custom order but Izumi are expensive and can be noisy and HKK aren't officially exported any more. Then our distributor sent us some of the new DID chains. DID are Big In Japan but haven't been seen much in Europe in the last decade. That's a shame, because this is a really nice retro track chain in bright silver, with lovely big smooth-running bushings and the NJS logo stamped on every link. 106 links, so long enough for most applications. 1/8" only, natch. Restocking shortly. |
The Izumi halflink is one of those odd products that you don't know you need until you've tried it, at which point it becomes indispensable. It's a halflink for 1/8 chain, which makes it a useful object for getting your rear wheel optimally far forward and so on. But also it's a screw-fastened masterlink, meaning that you can demount the chain in seconds using a screwdriver and a set of needlenose pliers. The link was developed for track use, so we recommend regular checks and the use of Loctite if you're planning to take it on the road. Restocking shortly. |
We're now stocking a common-or-garden halflink, the Gusset Slink. (Some of you will recognise Gusset as the name of ID's own-brand line of BMX parts.) This is a nice solid part, available in 1/8 or 3/32, and cheap. All fixers find halflinks useful from time to time, but they really come into their own in so-called 'magic gear' setups on bikes with vertical dropouts. Restocking shortly. |
EAI single chainring bolts are what you need to install a 1/8" or 3/32" single chainring on a double or triple crank -- or a track chainset, come to that. These aren't in any way exciting, being made decently enough in nickel steel, with an allen bolt fitting one side and a slot the other. It is still stupidly hard to find single chainring bolts in the UK, and these do the job pretty well. We sell tons. Restocked. |
You don't need chainring spacers. Your chainline is perfect. However, let's pretend, just for a second, that you have this... friend whose chainline isn't quite right. If your friend puts a set of these between ring and spider, they can move their ring a little, hopefully enough to shift it into the plane of the cog and correct the misalignment that's bothering you, ahem, them... Sets of five. Restocking shortly. |
Cork grips were common a century ago, but lost ground to rubber and plastic. A minority of riders have always sought them out: although less pliable than rubber, they are comfortable, and don't get sweaty. If you like summer riding without gloves, they may well suit you. These modern versions are produced by Nori-San for flat bars, but you could probably mount them on drops at a pinch. |
Oury grips were designed for MTB riders, but have become popular among messengers for their combination of thick rubber and low price. We usually have limited stock in black, grey and 'natural' (translucent white, like a lightbulb) plus the frankly unnatural glow-in-the-dark. |
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| KEIRIN GRIPS THIS WAY |
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80ml of finest Maruni rubber cement in a little tin. Smells great. |
Dura-Ace lockrings are the ones we sell most of. They use the old Brit threading, which means that they fit Dura-Ace, Sugino, On-One, Formula and indeed most hubs from factories in the Far East, plus ENOs and of course old Brit stuff. They're also tough enough for the NJS stamp. If you aren't sure which lockring you need, this is likely the one -- but feel free to ask. |
You just had to be different, didn't you? Sugino lockrings have the same compatibility as the Dura-Ace, bear the NJS stamp yadda yadda, and they have the lettering in contrasting yellow-on-black. Restocked. |
EuroAsia lockrings are Campagnolo-compatible and also work on Phil Wood. They're a good bit cheaper than Campy or Phil and they don't need expensive dedicated tools. If you have a vintage Campy, you may prefer a vintage Campy lockring -- write for details. |
Got a Miche? Here's a Miche lockring. We've had reports that the threading on Miche hubs has changed and we're trying to clarify the situation. Feel free to write. |
Small cogs are mental. They increase wear and are unforgiving of bad chainline. However, if you want to get a really large gear but can't fit a big ring against your fat stays (or if you're fixing a Brompton) a small cog may be just the thing. Ta-da! This new old stock 12t Suntour cog is presently the smallest 1/8" offering on the UK market. The Suntour is now a custom order item, but we're stocking Phil Wood's new 12t 1/8 cog. |
OK, here's the pitch. You have a nice old 70s frame that just wants some track ends. You've found a local framebuilder, but the phonecall was inconclusive--he's tracking down carbon wishbones, doesn't know where he'd source track ends. Impasse? Nope--get your own set from Hubjub, and hunt the builder down to his local hostelry. Buy him a pint. When you put his drink on the table, drop the track ends right next to it. Ask casually when he can put them on? Result! We have various sets in stock. Primary choice is these simple Tecnociclos, as used by Mercian. Email for more on the others. Restocking shortly. |
Tracknuts are heavy-duty nuts with a captive washer. This setup allows you to exert maximum force on the nut without fouling it against the dropout. Tracknuts are less common than they used to be. Most of our hubs use modern allen key fittings, and the one exception ships with very nice tracknuts as standard. But if you have an older hub with a threaded axle, tracknuts are a must. Ours are Shimano Dura-Ace, and they're seriously good. Restocking shortly. |
We do the matching front nuts, too. USP is that these take the same 15mm spanner as the rears, despite being threaded for a smaller axle. Simples! Restocked. |
Pitlock is clever security kit from Germany. You know how often you see bikes on the street missing front wheels, saddles, or bars? The Pitlock system goes a long way to eliminating that. It should be of interest to any cyclist, but we're particularly interested in getting the news out to couriers and tourists. Click the 'Tell Me More' link at left to find out more about the system and the various kits we offer, plus the extras like dedicated clamps, saddle loops, and 1" Aheadset caps. Down to our last few seatpost kits, but restock imminent. |
We just had to show you this packet. The Kashimax FiveGold top tube protector is a cylindrical ring of medium hard clear plastic with an aluminium inset. It's designed to clip around your top tube at the point where swinging bar ends would otherwise damage the paintwork. The FiveGold is one of those highly-specialized items that either thrillingly sorts you out or totally passes you by. Over to you... |
Clamp-on front brakes used to be an obscure item, but they've become popular with the growth of brakeless CMX bikes like the GOrilla Kilroy and the repurposing of old track frames. They are simple dual pivot units equipped with special mounts so that you can temporarily attach them to your track fork without drilling, and they ship with an easy-to-fit lever and cabling. Our distributor is now supplying Cobra's version, which is equipped with mountings for both round and oval fork legs. The Cobra is not a definitive solution, although it rides OK. We reckon that most potential buyers will be doing their actual braking by other means. These brakes will keep you street-legal in the UK and likely in other EU countries as well. |
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